Interior Drainage System CLICK HERE FOR A FREE ESTIMATE
Foundation interior drainage systems are one of the most important aspects of residential
construction. Drain tile systems are also one of the most misunderstood aspects. Because these
systems are buried and cannot be easily modified or corrected, it is vitally important that they are
installed correctly.
Foundation drainage systems, which are installed properly, can serve a dual roll. Foundation
drain tile systems are the means by which groundwater can be transported away from your
basement. If you want a dry basement and a sound foundation, you must have an adequate
foundation drainage system. The water content in the soil surrounding your house can fluctuate
seasonally. There is always a point at which you can dig and hit water. Geologists often refer to
this as the water table. This water table rises and falls in response to the amount of precipitation
in any given time period. The water table in many parts of the country can rise to within a few feet
of the surface during wet spells. Water will take the path of least resistance. If there is no exterior
waterproofing water can go sideways through a crack in your foundation, or it can go down
alongside your foundation into a pipe. I'm sure that you will agree that it is a better idea for the
water to go down into the pipe.
Interior drainage systems work extremely well for many customers. Depending on your
circumstances, this may be an effective solution. Many water control system companies claim to
be waterproofers and offer this method as a solution to every basement water problem. If a
company proposes opening the floor on the inside for any reason, they are offering an interior
drainage system. Only an exterior excavation to the footer or bottom of the foundation
accomplishes waterproofing. Never contract for a water control system if dampness, seepage,
and or cracking on the walls are your concern, as this may result in further damage to your
foundation.
To de-water a basement from the interior, a perimeter drain must be installed. In cases where
water is coming up through the floor, we prefer adding lateral (front to back) drains to collect
water before it even comes in contact with the slab. The water is transported away from the
basement, preventing floor water, and flooding. If a basement has a concrete slab floor this will
entail breaking the floor at the walls and/or across the floor and installing drain pipe that leads to
a sump-pump or gravity drain, and then re-pouring the broken sections of the floor. If grade
conditions and slope of land are adequate to accommodate a gravity drain, or you build on a
hillside, your drain tile pipe will simply 'daylight' or come to the surface. It is a much more reliable
system, as you do not have to rely on electricity to discharge the water in a torrential rain, your
system depends entirely on gravity to work. If you build on level ground, you will have to use a
sump pit and pump system
"RECOMMENDED" - INTERIOR DRAINAGE SYSTEM
The Barrier Sure-Flo Water Control System process starts
with opening the floor at the base of the wall and installing a
hydro-channel track on top of the footer to direct water from the
cold joint to the drain pipe. Next, we lay a geo-textile fabric on the
soil next to the footer. A two or three-inch thick layer of clean
gravel is then spread on top of the geo-textile fabric. We then
place a 4'' perforated PVC pipe on top of the gravel below or
beside the concrete footer. Drain tiles work most effectively
when placed below or along side of the foundation footer,
instead of on top of the footer. This practice allows you to
lower the effective water table an additional 6-8" below your
basement floor. (contrary to what many water control system
companies, who exclusively install on top of the footer systems,
would have you believe)
Note: Above or on top of the footer installations allow the water table to rise high enough to
contact the underside of the floor slab. This can cause structural deficiency, seepage through floor
cracks, and excessive humidity in a basement. This method also allows a greater chance at
complete failure in homes that are experiencing extended periods of heavy rain.
Clean gravel is then placed around the drain tile pipe. The gravel must be covered with the
geo-textile fabric, this covering keeps the gravel clean and allows the water to flow through it
freely. The system is then gravity fed to the sump pit.
95% of our foundation waterproofing & drainage business is installing retrofit systems ...
replacing other systems that have failed.
NOT RECOMMENDED - INTERIOR DRAINAGE SYSTEMS
1. Baseboard System on top of the slab
The simplest and least costly approach is a drainage channel adhered at the base of the wall and
the floor slab. In a block wall application, weep holes are drilled in each cell along the first course
of block to allow water to drain into the channel. The lower part of the block will continue to hold
water because its below the slab, resulting in lower wall deterioration. In a poured wall
application, the holes are drilled into
the floor slab. This idea is that the "removal'' of this water under the
slab lowers the water table, thus relieving hydrostatic pressure.
Although pressure is being relieved through the holes drilled in the
floor, the water under the slab is not being removed at all. In fact,
water is being permitted to drain through the floor slab and into the
drain channel above the floor. When the water level eventually begins
to drop, water will remain on top of, within, and under the slab.
Concrete absorbs water like a sponge, and water vapor readily
passes through concrete. The result of these indoor gutter systems
are excessive humidity, which can cause mold and mildew. The cost
makes these systems appealing to homeowners, but , because these
systems promote structural deterioration, they can eventually lead to
costly structural repairs.
This system should never be confused with, or called waterproofing.
2. Interior drainage channel on top of footer with no drain tile
Another method, used exclusively by some water control system companies, is to place a
drainage channel at the base of the wall on top of the footing. This requires removing and then
replacing the concrete along the wall/slab edge. The drainage channel is connected to a
drainage pipe leading
to sump pit. This approach is, at most, effective on masonry walls
with water problems because it drains the block cores. Holes must
be drilled into each block core to allow drainage. During heavy rain,
as water seeks its own level, the water will rise under the floor to the
height of the drainage channel allowing water to remain in contact
with the floor, causing vapor transfer into the home, damp spots on
the floor, and possibly floor water if floor cracks are present. For this
reason, water control system companies routinely try and sell sub-
floor drainage tiles to channel the floor water that their systems may
permit, and/or a device to deal with the extra humidity their systems
create. In some cases where poured concrete foundations have wall
cracks, flexible patches (wall band-aids) and/or a vapor barrier
(shower curtain) are often used or combined with these systems to
stop and/or hide wall leaks.
NEVER CONTRACT FOR A WATER CONTROL SYSTEM IF DAMPNESS, SEEPAGE AND OR
CRACKING ON THE WALLS ARE YOUR CONCERN, AS THIS MAY RESULT IN FURTHER
DAMAGE TO YOUR FOUNDATION (BOWING, BULGING FOUNDATION WALLS). Click Here to See
Why
Why Interior Drainage Systems?
In some cases the process of installing an interior drainage system is less expensive and
evasive then exterior waterproofing. A perimeter drainage system will still prevent unsightly
water on a basement floor and flooding, but will not prohibit seepage or dampness if there are
cracks in the foundation walls.
An interior drainage system does not waterproof a basement. For more information on our
industry leading, ''Barrier Dual Drainage System" please see the Exterior Waterproofing section.
Standing water and heavy moisture can lead to an infestation of mold, mildew and fungus on the
joists, studs and drywall in the basement, not only can mold lead to wood-rot and costly repairs,
it can be quite damaging to your health.
For more information about interior water control systems, exterior waterproofing for your
basement, total moisture control and indoor air quality solutions, or to schedule a FREE
inspection and estimate call today for an appointment at 636-332-5999 or Click here to contact
us now.
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